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TOURING

Thirty Miles of Bad Road

Buellin’ around Skyway alt-route presents off-road challenge It was a gorgeous Sunday morning in Durango, Colorado; sunny and 70 degrees. Clouds were building over the mountains, but I decided to go for a ride up to Purgatory and seek out the entrance to Bolem Pass in the San Juan Mountains, maybe even ride it. I found this pass by accident ...

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Anger management and the road to the Arctic: Part II

Touching the Circle In Part I, Brooklyn set out for the Arctic Circle with eight other riders in an effort to cope with his pent-up anger. Along the way, he discovered not only beautiful country and breathtaking views, but several rules of the road as well. He called them his Long-Distance Maxims: LDM #1) You will lose your shit; LDM ...

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Anger management and the road to the Arctic: Part I

The long road to inner peace The adventure begins Prologue I’m an angry man. I’m angry at work, at friends, at life in general. But what angers me most at this moment is that the one large, glorious gap in an otherwise unbroken timeline of labor, boredom, bills, and missed connections is all too rapidly being submerged in the tide ...

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Riding the Three Sisters

Texas ménage a trois When a rally just won’t do Leakey, Texas, March 9–28—Motorcycle rallies are rarely sufficient to satisfy the needs of a two-wheeled adventurer. They add spice and flavor to the sport, but the true meat of biking is a lonely back road. And in Texas, the mecca of Lone Star riding is the Hill Country. In particular, ...

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Wheels Through Time Fred Ham Celebration Run

Ironhead bikes and stubborn men Team attempts 2,000 miles at Talladega Talladega, Ala., April 4–5—At 2:30 p.m. on April 8, 1937, California motorcycle patrolman Fred Ham climbed aboard a new Harley-Davidson EL Knucklehead determined to break a series of endurance riding records that had been established 15 years earlier by Wells Bennett on an Indian motorcycle. Twenty-four hours, 1,825 miles ...

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Profile of a freedom fighter

The Remarkable Mr. Quigley Pressing the cause of personal liberty It’s a good day for riding in the bucolic town of Santa Cruz, California, and a biker is tooling down an autumn road, his long beard blowing in the wind. A police officer sees the biker ride by. Something catches his eye. The biker is wearing something on his head ...

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